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Joined on October 16, 2008

Last Post on October 20, 2008

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Gravity system with Circulator, New boiler, Higher bills

@ October 20, 2008 8:19 PM in Gravity system with Circulator, New boiler, Higher bills

JD Bypass on the boiler side of the circulator? I forgot to mention I have a B&G 100 pump that I purchased new for my old boiler. My plan was to mount it on this system. It just seams like a better pump. You did not mention the piping, Does this mean I should leave it alone?

Gravity system with Circulator, New boiler, Higher bills

@ October 20, 2008 8:16 PM in Gravity system with Circulator, New boiler, Higher bills

Mike The ESBE looks very interesting. Would you recommend supply side or return side mounting? Do I need to worry about the volume of water I have keeping the ESBE valve too cool? Would you mount the bypass on the boiler side of the circulator or before? The 2" piping is defiantly distinctly return and supply. The house is over 100 years old and has gone thru many updates. A water supply line in the attic. Coal room with a few coal chunks left over. Natural gas lighting throughout the house, that was a surprise the first time we removed an existing light fixture. Buss bar type wiring with ceramic guides.

Gravity system with new boiler and higher bills

@ October 20, 2008 2:47 PM in Gravity system with Circulator, New boiler, Higher bills

Hi, My heating system is a 2 pipe gravity setup with a circulator & Cast iron radiators. My boiler was 30 plus years old and I was told by 3 heating contractors that at best it was 60% efficient. Approx 180,000 BTU. I picked up a scratch and dent Burnham series 2 #204 boiler, $2000 installed. The contractor who did the install did not install a bypass pipe, and I understand that maybe one of the issues at hand. One of my cities best HVAC companies did the install. This is an on demand system and the boiler rarely gets up to 100 Deg. F. I expected my therms used, per heating degree day, to go down, but they went up. I read in Dan's Book "How Come" that I should reduce my pipe size to , but I also read in the Q&A forum where contractors are calling that a big mistake. The piping coming from the boiler is 1-1/4 and quickly changes to the original 2 runs. There is more than enough heat, this is not an issue. However we cannot use a programmable thermostat as the system over shoots the temp by 5 degrees or so when we call to increase the temp, not comfortable. I have been told that we are holding too much water in the piping, roughly 50 feet of 2 pipe, and that is where some of our efficiency is going. I am planning on installing a bypass at the boiler to keep the temperature within the boiler at a higher level. But with this really increase my efficiency? We are also going to install thermostatically controlled valves on the upper floor. I am remodeling this floor and building the walls out to 6 with thermo pane windows, plenty of heat. But what should I do about the piping; do I leave it alone or change it? If I change the 2 runs, to say 1 copper, how do I handle the ports that feed the radiators? I work with piping for a living, just not HVAC, but I get contractor pricing, so switching to copper does not scare me. If the suggesting is to switch to thermostatically controlled valves though out, and run constant circulation, doesnt that defeat the bypass piping? And doesnt that dead head the pump? Am I missing anything? Thanks in advance for your reply Regards Dave